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MOQs, Costing & Production Lifecycle
April 8, 2026
4 min read

Writing a Tech Pack: What It Needs to Contain

WP
Work+Shelter Production Team · Production, sourcing & compliance
Learn›MOQs, Costing & Production Lifecycle›Writing a Tech Pack: What It Needs to Contain

A tech pack is the production spec for a single garment — essentially an engineering drawing for a piece of clothing. A good one lets a factory quote accurately, sample correctly on the first try, and produce 2,000 units that all look like each other. A bad one (or a missing one) turns every production run into an expensive negotiation.

This article is a checklist for what a tech pack needs to contain.

The core sections

A workable tech pack has at minimum:

1. Garment sketch and flat drawings

Front and back flat drawings of the garment, drawn to scale or clearly proportioned, with callouts labeling each component (collar, placket, cuff, hem, etc.). Most factories prefer vector format (AI or PDF).

2. Bill of materials (BOM)

Every component that goes into the garment:

  • Main fabric — fiber content, weight (gsm), construction (jersey, twill, poplin, etc.), supplier if known
  • Lining fabric (if any)
  • Thread — color, tex/ticket number
  • Buttons, snaps, zippers — brand, model number, color, size
  • Interfacing, interlining
  • Labels — size, brand, care, country-of-origin
  • Hangtags and packaging

Missing any of these means the factory sources it without your input and you live with whatever they choose.

3. Points of measure (POM) table

A table of every critical measurement in the garment, usually for one base size (e.g. Small or Medium), with tolerances. Minimum useful POMs for most garments:

  • Chest, waist, hip
  • Shoulder width
  • Sleeve length, armhole depth
  • Body length (front and back)
  • Neck opening
  • Hem width

Tolerances are typically ±½ inch on most measurements; the factory sizes up and down from the base to create the full size run.

4. Size chart

The measurements for every size you're producing (XS-XXL typically). Either as absolute POMs per size, or as a grade rule (increment per size) applied to the base.

5. Construction details

For any non-obvious seam, stitch, or finishing choice:

  • Stitch type (lockstitch, overlock, coverstitch, flatlock)
  • Stitches per inch (SPI) — 10-14 for most apparel
  • Seam allowance
  • Hem finish (blind hem, double-needle, rolled, etc.)
  • Interfacing placement
  • Label placement

A callout diagram showing each detail against the flat drawing is ideal.

6. Colorways

Each color the garment will be produced in, with:

  • Pantone reference (TCX for textile colors is standard)
  • Lab dip approval plan — typically 2-3 rounds before bulk
  • Color placement if multi-color (e.g. body color vs contrast pocket)

7. Print / embroidery / applied art

For any decoration:

  • Artwork files (vector)
  • Placement measurements (e.g. centered 3 inches below neckline)
  • Size of art
  • Colors (Pantones)
  • Print method (screen, DTG, sublimation, embroidery)

8. Packaging

  • Poly bag or paper?
  • Folded how?
  • Hangtags attached how?
  • Size sticker on poly bag?
  • Master carton pack pattern

What breaks without a tech pack

  • Every quote comes back assuming a different specification; comparing quotes is apples-to-oranges
  • Sampling takes 3-4 rounds instead of 1-2
  • Bulk production has measurement drift because "Medium" meant something different to each stitch operator
  • Returns go up because size consistency varies between units
  • Factory fills gaps with their default choices (cheaper thread, thinner interfacing, generic trim)

Tools that help

For a first tech pack, Google Sheets or a Word doc with inline images works fine. Dedicated tools — Techpacker, Backbone PLM, MakersValley — get useful once you're producing 10+ styles per season. For a single SKU, don't over-invest in tooling; invest in the completeness of the spec.

The 80/20 on a good tech pack

If you can only nail four sections, make them:

  1. Flat drawings with callouts
  2. Bill of materials (especially fabric specification)
  3. POM table with tolerances
  4. Colorways with Pantone references

The rest can be negotiated during sampling. Skipping the above four is where cost and quality go sideways.

Related reading

  • Apparel MOQs Explained — how tech-pack completeness directly drives your per-piece price.
  • Sampling to Bulk: A Realistic 90-Day Apparel Timeline — what happens after the tech pack hits the factory.
  • How to Vet an Overseas Clothing Manufacturer — the wider context for why tech packs matter when choosing between quotes.
WP

Written by

Work+Shelter Production Team

Production, sourcing & compliance

The Work+Shelter production and sourcing team has spent fifteen years running an ethical, women-led apparel factory in Delhi. We wrote these guides from the factory floor, not from a marketing office — with the specific numbers, audit processes, and edge cases brands actually encounter.

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Pillar 04 · Production

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MOQs, Costing & Production Lifecycle

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4 min
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April 8, 2026

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We work with emerging and established apparel brands on ethical, women-led production in India. If you have a tech pack or even just a concept, we can walk you through what's possible.

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